Tree Removal Dead Peppercorn Tree

Job   This Peppercorn tree was in Summer hill Sydney. It had rott all thruought the stem of the tree from the base to the last remaining limbs. It trully was a risk to the fallily of four that lved with it. This is a classic example of a tree the really needed to go.   Requirements   We climbed this tree as it had poor axcess for our platform host, and had to set up ullys and blocks to encsue the tree came down safe without damage to property. Note please when ever climbinga tree in such condition be extreamly carefull of the dangers, as any limb could give way at any moment.       About Pepper Corn tree ( Schinus molle )   https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schinus_molle   Schinus molle is a quick growing evergreen tree that grows 15 meters (50 feet) tall and 5–10 meters (16–33 feet) wide. It is the largest of all Schinus species and potentially the longest lived. The upper branches of the tree tend to droop.The tree's pinnately compound leaves measure 8–25 cm long × 4–9 cm wide and are made up of 19-41alternate leaflets.Male and female flowers occur on separate plants (dioecious).Flowers are small, white and borne profusely in panicles at the ends of the drooping branches. The fruit are 5–7 mm diameter round drupes with woody seeds that turn from green to red, pink or purplish,carried in dense clusters of hundreds of berries that can be present year-round. The rough grayish bark is twisted and drips sap. The bark, leaves and berries are aromatic when crushed.

Sandstone pathways

 

There are many reasons for choosing sandstone patio pathways or driveways are durability and versatility. Sandstone pavers are used for various external applications both in commercial and residential projects. These are extremely popular in Sydney landscape designs, garden pavements, pathways, etc.

Main features are:

1. The most important feature of Sydney sandstone is that availability in many colours and each colour has shades from light to dark. This makes your selection easy for matching and in many shades of one colour you can design your whole interior and exterior décor.

2. You can use both natural surface and honed (polished) surface of sandstone for outdoor paving because of its non-slippery property. It is also moisture and corrosion resistant which makes it perfect as outdoor application material.

3. Create any design or shape that compliment your interior designs like our designs of sandstone circles.

4. A low maintenance cost makes it more demanding among architects and builders. Some sandstone like yellows are even acid resistant so there is no worry of stains. If you still have any stain of acid or hot water then it can also be washed away by using strong detergent and hot water. For some more deterrent stains like rust, you can use chemical acid solutions like hydrochloric solutions.

5. A properly sealed paving design lasts long but if you are using any harsh way to clean your pathways then it may be possible that some joints can open. These damages or joints can be filled easily again with cement or any other filler available in your local building material shops.

All these qualities make sandstone a first and functional choice of construction companies. If you have any renovation or construction project then write us for informative and technical advices for choosing material.

Here is an example of a pathway we just compleated in Pymble.

 

Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787

Sandstone pathways

Here is an example of a pathway we just compleated in Pymble.

 

Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787

Lilac care

If you can't plant the lilac right away, soak the roots as described above, then plant the lilac temporarily in a holding bed. Set the lilac at an angle ("heeled") and entirely pack the roots with soil. Add additional soil and keep the soil moist until you are ready to plant.

There are four important areas of lilac care:

sunlight

drainage

soil

pruning

Choosing the planting site: Avoid planting lilacs along walls or among large trees (or trees that will grow tall). Use complementary shrubs, plants, or other garden outcroppings to enhance the appearance before and after bloom. Space lilacs no less than 6 to 10 feet apart. Crowding requires more frequent and drastic pruning.

Sunlight: Make good use of available sunlight; try a south or southwest spot out of the way of doors or windows. Lilacs require a minimum of six hours of direct sunlight daily. The amount of sunlight dictates the appearance, color, and quantity of bloom. Too much sunlight is better than not enough.

Drainage: Good drainage is characterized by the soil's ability to retain sufficient moisture to nourish the root system while still being able to drain off excess moisture. Lilacs do not thrive in soggy soil.

Before planting, try digging a hole about 8 inches in diameter by 12 inches deep. Fill the hole with water. If the water has not drained after one hour, improve the drainage or move the plant to another site.

To improve drainage:

Remove the topsoil from the actual planting site (an area equal to 2 to 3 times the lilac's root system) and reserve.

Mix sand and/or fine gravel 6 to 10 inches deep into the subsoil (not the topsoil)

Mix the reserved topsoil with peat, vermiculite or other porous amendment to cover the root system when the lilac is planted.

Planting

The planting hole should be deep and wide enough to accommodate the plant's root system. We recommend adding compost, bonemeal or an all-purpose fertilizer to the planting hole. If your soil is acidic, add some garden lime.

When planting, place the top of the root ball level with the surface of the hole. If the lilac is bareroot, the top layer of roots should be a few inches below the surface. When filling in with soil, it is important to water well, but do not flood, and avoid compacting the soil around the root system. The idea is to remove air pockets, yet keep the soil porous.

Remember to water your lilacs regularly throughout the summer. During the dry season, water more frequently to keep the leaves robust, not limp.

Fertilizing

Fertilizer should be applied at the base of the plant early each spring to help provide the plant with nutrients for the coming year. Buds are set the previous year so the fertilizer will feed this year's leaves and next year's bloom. We recommend our Organic Flower Fertilizer.

Lilacs love a sweet soil. If your soil is acidic, adding garden lime in the fall will help the soil stay alkaline.

Mulching

Using mulch will help hold water in the soil and reduce heat stress. If you see the leaves getting limp during summer it is a sign that the plant needs to be watered.

Deadheading

If you have a repeat-blooming variety, such as Josée, deadheading will will stimulate the production of new flower and leaf buds. All lilac varieties benefit from annual deadheading.

Pruning

Lilacs do not require annual pruning, but cutting off blooms from main stems within a week after blooms have faded will help the plant concentrate on preparing more flower buds and not seeds. If your lilacs become too tall, and the number of blooms declines, you can rejuvenate the plant by cutting one-third of all main stems that have a diameter of at least 1.5 inches.

Cut these main stems down to 12 to 15 inches from the soil. This will stimulate the growth of new shoots. Pruning in this way over a three-year period will refresh the plant while it still continues to flower.

 

Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787

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Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787

Dogwood bush

Growing a red twig dogwood is a great way to add spectacular color to the winter garden. The stems, which are green in spring and summer, turn bright red when the foliage drops off in autumn. The shrub produces creamy-white flowers in spring and berries that ripen from green to white by the end of summer. Both fruits and flowers look good against the dark background of the foliage, but pale in comparison to the brilliant winter display.

Growing a Red Twig Dogwood

Don’t confuse red twig dogwood trees with other dogwood trees. While both the tree and the shrub belong to the Cornus genus, red twig dogwoods never grow to become trees. There are two species of Cornus called red twig dogwoods: Tatarian dogwood (C. alba) and Redosier dogwood (C. sericea). The two species are very similar.

 

Red twig dogwood is one of those plants where more is better. They look fantastic when planted in groups or as an informal hedge. When planting red twig dogwoods, give them plenty of room. They grow up to 8 feet tall with an 8 foot spread. Overcrowding encourages diseases and causes less attractive, thin stems.

Red Twig Dogwood Care

Red twig dogwood care is minimal except for pruning. Annual pruning is essential to keep the brilliant colors of the twigs. The primary goal of pruning red twig dogwoods is to remove the old stems that no longer show good winter color.

Remove about a third of the stems at ground level every year. Cut out old, weak stems as well as well as those that are damaged, discolored, or growing poorly. This method of pruning keeps the color bright and the shrub vigorous. After thinning you can shorten the stems to control the height if you’d like. Cut back the entire shrub to 9 inches above the ground if it becomes overgrown or out of control. This is a good way to quickly renew the plant, but it leaves a bare spot in the landscape until it regrows.

Water weekly in the absence of rain for the first couple of months after planting red twig dogwoods, and cut back on the water once the shrub is established. Mature shrubs only need watering during dry spells.

Feed the plant once a year with a layer of compost or a sprinkling of slow-released fertilizer over the root zone.

 

Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787

Pruning Roses

Pruning is a great job to undertake and I can't wait to get started. But early winter (June), with our temperatures still reaching 17 degrees , it's still too soon and I will have to restrain myself a little longer. It's that time of year again and many roses enthusiasts are turning their minds to this task. There are principles to be followed if you want to do the right thing, but there is really no need to find it daunting.

Just a few major steps first for beginners.
The more you know about your rose the easier the task will be.

For example:

• Is your rose once-flowering or remontant (repeat flowering)?

• What is its normal growth habit - climber, tall, medium or short bush?

• Do you get frosts in your area? This is very important for the timing of pruning.

 

When to prune
The time varies according to rose type and location.

• If your rose is just once-flowering, it should be pruned as soon as possible after the flowering is finished and this usually means late spring or early summer.
• Most old and species roses require little or no pruning, other than to keep the plant from growing far too big (so you cut to the size you want – allowing for growth in the following season).
• The oldest less productive, dry- greyish looking stems can also be removed to encourage the growth of more productive (young , green, sappy-looking) stems from the base or from near the base.
• I cut out old wood (to the base of the plant) and prune back any branches which are clearly too big ( or going to be too big), knowing that although I may lose some flowers by doing this, there will still be a wonderful show in the following season from the many canes
• I have left. Be aware that any pruning at this time will remove the hips which can otherwise make a wonderful show and be enjoyed throughtout the summer and well into autumn.

• That is what I usually prefer to do. In Autumn, when the hips are past their best, I cut out old wood (to the base of the plant) and prune back any branches which are clearly too big ( or going to be too big), knowing that although I may lose some flowers by doing this, there will still be a wonderful show in the following season from the many canes I have left.

• Repeat-flowering roses also benefit from being pruned after flowering, so I prune them three or four times each season.
• It is the severity of the pruning that varies. In summer, most gardeners are happy to just dead- head their roses, and certainly this is usually adequate after the first flowering in the spring. Even at this time, however, I take each stem of a spent flower well back if the rose is a very vigorous variety, so that it does not become too tall or 'leggy' in the summer. Other stems may just be tipped. This procedure is repeated in the summer and perhaps in early autumn (depending on the season and the variety). I have had good flowering well into May, in a season with prolonged warm weather and little rain.

• By late autumn or early winter, the rose garden is generally in need of attention, but my advice is to let it rest if possible and not rush into the winter prune (the most severe prune), too early. In so doing, you may be able to enjoy the last few odd roses with their unique touches of autumnal colourings, and you do allow the new young stems to grow and harden off, before you have to consider what should be pruned away. In frost-prone or very cold areas, leave the pruning until all chances of frost or extreme cold are over. If you prune early and warm weather follows, new growth will appear on the plant and this will be damaged when the cold comes. The plant is unnecessarily 'knocked back'. Wait for all leaf fall, to show the plant is dormant.

How to winter prune

• After many years of pruning thousands of roses I still most frequently stand in front of each rose and think 'What on earth am I going to do with this?' Over the years, the answers just come a little more quickly. If the top is very tall, spindly and in my way, I may initially just clip it all off roughly, at one level, with hedge clippers, to allow me to work more easily.

• Then I go to the base of the plant and I like to use two handled secateurs to cut out the old stems (see description line 15, above) and any laterals (small stems coming from main ones)which cross over or which are growing towards the middle of the plant. Using my one handled secateurs, I make my way up from the base in this way, aiming to clear the centre of the plant and to maintain a good structure with strong, upright stems forming the shape.

• Clear away all leaves and debris that may have collected at the base.

• When I reach what can be considered an appropriate height for that plant - short, medium or tall - I then look to prune each stem to a bud at the desired height ( remember to allow for the spring growth).
• The later you leave the pruning the easier it will be to find a bud, as they begin to swell. Basically, however, there will be a bud at each leaf join. (pull away a leaf from the stem and you will find a slight swelling or even just a line).
• Find a bud growing in the direction you want the next stem to grow, (usually outwards, keeping the centre free), cut at an angle about one centimetre from the bud, so that the lowest part of the cut is on the side opposite to the bud. (this is the ideal, but if it sounds too complex do not be overly concerned; just cut at this level and with time as you become used to pruning, you will find appropriate buds easily).
• Shape the top of the plant as you desire – stems should usually be of similar height or perhaps reach a dome shape if there are many.

• Carry away and dispose of all prunings and leaf litter as they harbour diseases.

• Spray plant and surrounding area with lime sulphur to keep diseases such as blackspot at bay.

Pruning climbers

• This is task is even more clearly demonstrated in the garden, but basically the same principles apply as those given for bushes.
• Each year one or more of the oldest canes may be selected to be pruned out to encourage new basal growth.
• The remaining long canes are best bent and fixed in fan shape or horizontally, as flowering will then occur at frequent intervals. If this is not possible and all the growth is to be vertical, with flowering just at the top of each stem, cut these at different levels.
• For example, if stems are upright against a wall, pole or fence, leave the back two or three as tall as possible (or desired), select the next two or three and prune them somewhat shorter, and so on down the plant in a graded effect, with the shortest at the front.
• Flowers will then develop at all levels instead of the unappealing 'bare-legged look' with all the flowering at the top and just stems at eye -level and below.

There is no need to feed at this time. Wait until the warmer weather comes and the first signs of growth(buds swelling ) can be seen. You will be well rewarded within a few short weeks!

 

Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787