This Peppercorn tree was in Summer hill Sydney. It had rott all thruought the stem of the tree from the base to the last remaining limbs. It trully was a risk to the fallily of four that lved with it. This is a classic example of a tree the really needed to go.
We climbed this tree as it had poor axcess for our platform host, and had to set up ullys and blocks to encsue the tree came down safe without damage to property. Note please when ever climbinga tree in such condition be extreamly carefull of the dangers, as any limb could give way at any moment.
About Pepper Corn tree ( Schinus molle )
Schinus molle is a quick growing evergreen tree that grows 15 meters (50 feet) tall and 5–10 meters (16–33 feet) wide. It is the largest of all Schinus species and potentially the longest lived. The upper branches of the tree tend to droop.The tree's pinnately compound leaves measure 8–25 cm long × 4–9 cm wide and are made up of 19-41alternate leaflets.Male and female flowers occur on separate plants (dioecious).Flowers are small, white and borne profusely in panicles at the ends of the drooping branches. The fruit are 5–7 mm diameter round drupes with woody seeds that turn from green to red, pink or purplish,carried in dense clusters of hundreds of berries that can be present year-round. The rough grayish bark is twisted and drips sap. The bark, leaves and berries are aromatic when crushed.
Saturday, August 8, 2015
Friday, October 3, 2014
There are many reasons for choosing sandstone patio pathways or driveways are durability and versatility. Sandstone pavers are used for various external applications both in commercial and residential projects. These are extremely popular in Sydney landscape designs, garden pavements, pathways, etc.
Main features are:
1. The most important feature of Sydney sandstone is that availability in many colours and each colour has shades from light to dark. This makes your selection easy for matching and in many shades of one colour you can design your whole interior and exterior décor.
2. You can use both natural surface and honed (polished) surface of sandstone for outdoor paving because of its non-slippery property. It is also moisture and corrosion resistant which makes it perfect as outdoor application material.
3. Create any design or shape that compliment your interior designs like our designs of sandstone circles.
4. A low maintenance cost makes it more demanding among architects and builders. Some sandstone like yellows are even acid resistant so there is no worry of stains. If you still have any stain of acid or hot water then it can also be washed away by using strong detergent and hot water. For some more deterrent stains like rust, you can use chemical acid solutions like hydrochloric solutions.
5. A properly sealed paving design lasts long but if you are using any harsh way to clean your pathways then it may be possible that some joints can open. These damages or joints can be filled easily again with cement or any other filler available in your local building material shops.
All these qualities make sandstone a first and functional choice of construction companies. If you have any renovation or construction project then write us for informative and technical advices for choosing material.
Here is an example of a pathway we just compleated in Pymble.
Wednesday, October 9, 2013
If you can't plant the lilac right away, soak the roots as described above, then plant the lilac temporarily in a holding bed. Set the lilac at an angle ("heeled") and entirely pack the roots with soil. Add additional soil and keep the soil moist until you are ready to plant.
There are four important areas of lilac care:
Choosing the planting site: Avoid planting lilacs along walls or among large trees (or trees that will grow tall). Use complementary shrubs, plants, or other garden outcroppings to enhance the appearance before and after bloom. Space lilacs no less than 6 to 10 feet apart. Crowding requires more frequent and drastic pruning.
Sunlight: Make good use of available sunlight; try a south or southwest spot out of the way of doors or windows. Lilacs require a minimum of six hours of direct sunlight daily. The amount of sunlight dictates the appearance, color, and quantity of bloom. Too much sunlight is better than not enough.
Drainage: Good drainage is characterized by the soil's ability to retain sufficient moisture to nourish the root system while still being able to drain off excess moisture. Lilacs do not thrive in soggy soil.
Before planting, try digging a hole about 8 inches in diameter by 12 inches deep. Fill the hole with water. If the water has not drained after one hour, improve the drainage or move the plant to another site.
To improve drainage:
Remove the topsoil from the actual planting site (an area equal to 2 to 3 times the lilac's root system) and reserve.
Mix sand and/or fine gravel 6 to 10 inches deep into the subsoil (not the topsoil)
Mix the reserved topsoil with peat, vermiculite or other porous amendment to cover the root system when the lilac is planted.
The planting hole should be deep and wide enough to accommodate the plant's root system. We recommend adding compost, bonemeal or an all-purpose fertilizer to the planting hole. If your soil is acidic, add some garden lime.
When planting, place the top of the root ball level with the surface of the hole. If the lilac is bareroot, the top layer of roots should be a few inches below the surface. When filling in with soil, it is important to water well, but do not flood, and avoid compacting the soil around the root system. The idea is to remove air pockets, yet keep the soil porous.
Remember to water your lilacs regularly throughout the summer. During the dry season, water more frequently to keep the leaves robust, not limp.
Fertilizer should be applied at the base of the plant early each spring to help provide the plant with nutrients for the coming year. Buds are set the previous year so the fertilizer will feed this year's leaves and next year's bloom. We recommend our Organic Flower Fertilizer.
Lilacs love a sweet soil. If your soil is acidic, adding garden lime in the fall will help the soil stay alkaline.
Using mulch will help hold water in the soil and reduce heat stress. If you see the leaves getting limp during summer it is a sign that the plant needs to be watered.
If you have a repeat-blooming variety, such as Josée, deadheading will will stimulate the production of new flower and leaf buds. All lilac varieties benefit from annual deadheading.
Lilacs do not require annual pruning, but cutting off blooms from main stems within a week after blooms have faded will help the plant concentrate on preparing more flower buds and not seeds. If your lilacs become too tall, and the number of blooms declines, you can rejuvenate the plant by cutting one-third of all main stems that have a diameter of at least 1.5 inches.
Cut these main stems down to 12 to 15 inches from the soil. This will stimulate the growth of new shoots. Pruning in this way over a three-year period will refresh the plant while it still continues to flower.
Sunday, September 29, 2013
Growing a red twig dogwood is a great way to add spectacular color to the winter garden. The stems, which are green in spring and summer, turn bright red when the foliage drops off in autumn. The shrub produces creamy-white flowers in spring and berries that ripen from green to white by the end of summer. Both fruits and flowers look good against the dark background of the foliage, but pale in comparison to the brilliant winter display.
Growing a Red Twig Dogwood
Don’t confuse red twig dogwood trees with other dogwood trees. While both the tree and the shrub belong to the Cornus genus, red twig dogwoods never grow to become trees. There are two species of Cornus called red twig dogwoods: Tatarian dogwood (C. alba) and Redosier dogwood (C. sericea). The two species are very similar.
Red twig dogwood is one of those plants where more is better. They look fantastic when planted in groups or as an informal hedge. When planting red twig dogwoods, give them plenty of room. They grow up to 8 feet tall with an 8 foot spread. Overcrowding encourages diseases and causes less attractive, thin stems.
Red Twig Dogwood Care
Red twig dogwood care is minimal except for pruning. Annual pruning is essential to keep the brilliant colors of the twigs. The primary goal of pruning red twig dogwoods is to remove the old stems that no longer show good winter color.
Remove about a third of the stems at ground level every year. Cut out old, weak stems as well as well as those that are damaged, discolored, or growing poorly. This method of pruning keeps the color bright and the shrub vigorous. After thinning you can shorten the stems to control the height if you’d like. Cut back the entire shrub to 9 inches above the ground if it becomes overgrown or out of control. This is a good way to quickly renew the plant, but it leaves a bare spot in the landscape until it regrows.
Water weekly in the absence of rain for the first couple of months after planting red twig dogwoods, and cut back on the water once the shrub is established. Mature shrubs only need watering during dry spells.
Feed the plant once a year with a layer of compost or a sprinkling of slow-released fertilizer over the root zone.
Friday, September 13, 2013
Pruning is a great job to undertake and I can't wait to get started. But early winter (June), with our temperatures still reaching 17 degrees , it's still too soon and I will have to restrain myself a little longer. It's that time of year again and many roses enthusiasts are turning their minds to this task. There are principles to be followed if you want to do the right thing, but there is really no need to find it daunting.
Just a few major steps first for beginners.
The more you know about your rose the easier the task will be.
When to prune
The time varies according to rose type and location.
How to winter prune
There is no need to feed at this time. Wait until the warmer weather comes and the first signs of growth(buds swelling ) can be seen. You will be well rewarded within a few short weeks!